Annemarie Mol's book Eating Is an English Word is filled with spirited stories about satisfied stomachs, love for a lamb, juicy fruit treats, and companionable lunches and dinners.
Eating is generally understood as a human need that people satisfy in diverse ways. Eating, however, is also an English word. Other languages, using other words, order reality differently: they may fuse eating with breathing, or distinguish chupar from comer. Anthropologists flag up such differences by leaving a few of their words untranslated, but what language do we think in? This isn't necessarily English. We may be linguistically closer to those whose practices we study: them.
Against this background, Eating Is an English Word argues that social scientists should let go of the dream of universal concepts. Our analytical terms had better vary. Annemarie Mol and her coauthors exemplify this in a series of material semiotic inquiries into eating practices. They employ terms like lekker, tasting with fingers, chupar, schmecka, gustar, and settling on an okay meal to explore appreciative modes of valuing.
Annemarie Mol is Professor of Anthropology of the Body at the University of Amsterdam and author of Eating in Theoryand The Body Multiple: Ontology in Medical Practice, both also published by Duke University Press.
Duke University Press, 200pp, 15cm x 23cm, paperback. 2023